Pleasure Beyond Measure – Krug’s Seasonal Menu at Murano

Welcome to heaven on Earth at Michelin Star Murano with Angela Hartnett & Champagne Krug

A once in a lifetime chance to dine with living legends Olivier Krug and Angela Hartnett has to be the foodie equivalent of winning tickets to the VIP private party at the Superbowl.

Due to technical issues with London Transport it took a car, a bus, two tube trains and finally a taxi to get me to the restaurant on time, but as soon as I pushed the discreet glass door to enter this oasis of calm, I literally melted into a world of taste sensations where time suddenly stood still. There is nothing quite like a Michelin starred chef opening her own front door and welcoming you with a glass of Krug!

“Whether in art or business, technique can lead you to a very high level. But what makes your character is your passion. You have to believe in what you do, always challenge yourself, and improve to better the quality,” enthuses 46 year old 6th generation family winemaker Olivier Krug at Michelin starred Murano restaurant in London’s Mayfair. “When I talk about Champagne I talk about the pleasure. Pleasure is about generosity and sharing and falling in love and this is the legend that makes Krug so popular.”

Awarded an MBE for her services to the hospitality industry in 2007 and best known for national TV appearances and her intricate and well balanced food using seasonal produce, 44 year old Hartnett opened her fine dining Italian restaurant in August 2008 and welcomed the House of Krug to her Champagnes list in 2010.

Olivier Krug, Angela Hartnett & Champagne Jayne in Foodie heaven at Murano

Together Murano and Krug decided to launch a unique “seasonal” five-course menu concept, designed to offer diners exquisite fresh ingredients and stunningly flavoured dishes by Angela paired with specially selected bottles of Krug.

The Krug Autumnal Menu at Murano consists of:

Scallop and bream ceviche, vegetable tempura and horseradish cream
Paired with Krug Grande Cuvée

Ravioli of king prawn, shellfish vinaigrette and fennel purée
Paired with Krug 2000

Roasted English rose veal, orange chicory, cooking juices and spiced bread
Paired with Krug 1998

Parmigiano Reggiano
Paired with Krug Grande Cuvée

Ginger pain perdu, Earl Grey jelly and ginger ice cream
Paired with Krug Grande Cuvée

Thanks to a youthful blend of Italian, Welsh and Irish influences this world famous fiesty female chef, broadcaster and author affectionately known as “Dizzy Lizzy” (mentor Gordon Ramsay’s nicest nickname for his straight shooting female protegee) is enchanting and accessible, just like her food, which is presented with precision and passion both on the plate and the palate.

Scallop & bream ceviche, Ravioli of king prawn, Roasted English Veal served with Krug Grande Cuvee & Krug 2000

Each delectable combination of flavours on offer with the Seasonal Krug Murano Menu is sublime, but for sheer melt in the mouth goodness and texture, my stand outs on the night were the roasted veal (matched with Krug 98) and the ginger pain perdu (matched with Krug Grande Cuvee). As I confided to Angela across the table, I would have happily drunk Krug Grande Cuvee throughout this meal, but experiencing different vintages of Krug with her dishes took this dining experience beyond pleasure and left me speechless through overstimulation of my taste buds. In Angela’s own words: “The Krug Seasonal Menu at Murano is luxurious yet maintains the freshness and subtlety that is at the heart of Murano’s food. Each course is perfectly paired with the flavour of Krug, the structure of which makes it the perfect champagne to be drunk throughout a meal.”

Armed with a dynamite smile, sexy French accent (and passport and neatly packed overnight bag eveready to rock and roll) Olivier Krug has been travelling the globe for the past 23 years, monitoring the “taste” of Krug in the world’s finest dining establishments and building relationships with loyal consumers referred to as “Krugistes”, but is rarely seen in London. An exemplary ambassador for the luxury market and for the Champagne region itself, Olivier explained to me, over an after dinner flute of Grande Cuvee, “We believe that Krug is the easiest champagne to understand on earth, you just have to experience it. You don’t need to know it, you don’t need to be an expert to enjoy Krug. But yes Krug is prestige cuvee only and makes up just 0.2% of the Champagne available in the market, so it remains very select”.

The new seasonal Krug at Murano Autumn menu is £250 per person (new menu coming March 2013). Prior notice must be given to book a table for the Krug dining experience. Please contact the Murano reservation line +44 (0)207 495 1127.

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This review by Jayne Powell (aka Champagne Jayne) was originally published by Harpers on Dec 18 2012.

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